An interplay of patterns, colours, and motifs. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement The night sky with its constellations and twinkling stars is reimagined as India’s flora and fauna in Jaypore’s latest festive collection that celebrates two distinct Indian crafts — Ajrakh and Kalamkari — in an interplay of patterns, colours, and motifs. Jaypore from the house Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited has called the collection A Tale of Two Crafts that pays an ode to timeless craft traditions.Quirky styling in the form of relaxed kurtas and tunics, fluid dresses and coordinated sets, comfortable pants and dupattas that can be styled for various occasions, and breathable fabrics define the collection. “We were thinking about how craft can be made accessible to everyone,” says Vandana Gupta, creative head at Jaypore, adding, “It doesn’t have to be worn only for special occasions or evening wear, or be restricted to silk and expensive garments.
We wanted to explore crafts that a woman could wear comfortably every day from morning to evening.” The creative journey began with the idea of everyday wardrobe. The night sky soon became a source of inspiration, with stars and constellations leading the designers towards Ajrakh’s characteristic geometric patterns and dots.
This was then juxtaposed with Kalamkari’s rich vocabulary of flora and fauna. “Wecn,” she explains.Vandana and her team also drew inspiration from Gond art, particularly its dotted technique, which resembles stars. Animal motifs, including deer and birds, were given stylised, almost dreamlike interpretations.
The deer, in particular, became an interesting design exercise. “I asked my team to approach the motif as a child drawing the animal. The repeated sketches eventually evolved into an abstract, artistic and youthful interpretation,” recalls Vandana.The design team worked closely with artisans from India’s craft clusters.
While Ajrakh has evolved through constant experimenting and exposure to international markets, Kalamkari comes with its own set of challenges. “In the Kalamkari cluster, artisans work within limitations involving block sizes, colours and processes. We worked together with the artisans to develop larger motifs that would lend the garments bolder, more contemporary designs,” explains VandanaThe team also collaborated with Sufian Khatri in Ajrakhpur to develop the star-inspired patterns.
The colour palette ensured that the two crafts complemented each other without losing their individual identities. Black, white, charcoal and different shades of indigo formed the Ajrakh vocabulary, creating the dramatic effect of a night sky.
Kalamkari brought in earthy reds, rusts, greens and mustard, representing the natural world beneath it. “Since both crafts use natural dyes, we chose to work within the available colour spectrum rather than introduce synthetic dyes to achieve brighter shades,” she says.The collection comprises kurtas, kurta sets, tunics and easy separates in cotton, with relaxed fits and shorter lengths that can be styled with trousers or denims. As for fabrics, instead of relying entirely on flat cotton, the design team introduced slubs to create subtle textural variations.
When exposed to natural dyes, these slubs absorb colour differently, producing a gentle high-low effect. “The processes involved in the crafts also influence the final texture. Kalamkari’s milk treatment softens the fabric, while Ajrakh’s multiple dye baths lend it a distinctive feel.
The idea is to keep it comfortable and breathable while allowing the craft to play a strong role.” The collection comprises kurtas, kurta sets, tunics and easy separates in cotton | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement Accessories like silver-toned jewellery, including dangling earrings and chunkier pieces, elevate the collection without making it overtly festive. “It was challenging to strike a balance between artistic expression and commercial viability,” she says adding that factors like comfort, colour fastness, ease of washing, fabric quality and accessible price points mattered. “We push the boundaries in detailing. It could be the way a garment is buttoned, a hint of colour, embroidery, or a tassel.
These little elements give it a signature without making it difficult to wear,” she says.While the collection is an invitation to experience traditional crafts beyond their conventional settings, she hopes young consumers make them a part of their wardrobe. “Making craft relevant today is as important as preserving it,” she says, adding, “Youngsters understand what Kalamkari or Ajrakh is, but the question is how they connect with it. A playful motif, an element of surprise and contemporary styling help create that connection.”Available online at jaypore.com Published - November 06, 2026 09:21 pm IST